I love chips, but more often than not I can’t be bothered going to the chippy – and because the downstairs of Bigmouth Towers is open plan, doing proper chips at home isn’t an option either (because of the smell, the risk of burning the house down, the way it takes deep fat fryers about ten million years to cool down).

That leaves oven chips, which are quite possibly the worst invention since vegetables. So hurrah, then, for McCain’s ridiculously expensive (£2-something for 500g) but absolutely bloody brilliant Simply Gorgeous Chips.  The formula is simple enough – spuds, sunflower oil, salt and beef dripping – but by crikey, it works.